So far, I have been showing “bee-colours” (more accurately “false colour representations of the spectrum visible to bees”) that were generated by combining the UV-image with the blue and green channel of a second image taken with a filtration that passes visible light (e.g. UG40 or the Baader UV/IR cut filter.
Lately, I’ve been experimenting with filter stacks that pass UV, blue and green. It is interesting that both methods can result in quite similar images. I just want to show an example today. Within the next several weeks I’m planning to elaborate more on the topic.
Ranunculus ficaria, Bensheim 9 March 2014.
Camera: Panasonic Lumix broadband modified, with the EL-Nikkor 80mm/f5.6.
Visible light image (Filter: Schott BG40, 2mm)
UV image (Filter: Baader-U)
Bee-colours (Filter: Schott UG-5 + S8612, both 2mm), UV-flash
Bee-colours with channel swapping (blue->green, green->red, red->blue):
Image without any filters:
That's it for today. I will be posting more images and documentation on the method within the next several weeks.
Hallo!
ReplyDeleteVielen Dank für diesen tollen Blog - alle Ihre Aufnahmen begeistern mich! Was ich mich die ganze Zeit über frage: Wie stellen Sie den Weißabgleich für die UV-Fotos ein?
Viele Grüße und eine schöne Woche!
Hallo,
Deletefür UV-Aufnahmen verwende ich weißes Teflon (PTFE) zur Einstellung des Weißabgleichs. Panasonic Lumix Kameras kommen damit gut klar. RAW-Konverter können das Ergebnis allerdings wieder zu Nichte machen. In Lightroom musste ich ein eignes Profil erstellen. Phase One oder UFRaw (GIMP) kommen aber damit klar:
Siehe auch:
http://www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/index.php?/topic/81-how-to-make-uv-colours-reproducible/
http://www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/index.php?/topic/258-white-balancing-uv-photos-in-lightroom/page__hl__lightroom__fromsearch__1
Für andere Filterkombinationen verwende ich meist eine normale Graukarte.
Grüße und vielen Dank für die Blumen,
Nico Chalwatzis
Super, vielen Dank für die schnelle und ausführliche Antwort!
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